Surf Revelations
What Are You Afraid Of?
Who would have thought that the best way to overcome my fear of big waves was to go surfing at night?
After a year of surfing three-foot waves on a ten-foot surf board, Shane started to push me to try bigger waves and increasingly challenging situations. However, the idea of a wall of water threatening to hit me with my 10 foot surf board was hard to swallow.
I liken the feeling to balancing on a curb… 40 feet off the ground. You know that 6 inches off the ground you can balance just fine. Though for some reason the extra 40 feet stirs a distinct uncertainty.
I had this realization the other day that seems to have given me cause to disagree with Buddha about the meaning of enlightenment.
Skillful Balance
From the time that I first started longboarding, I have been on a quest to find the best spot on my board to maintain perfect balance. I have gotten pretty good at finding it. Now what? Fighting to maintain a stronghold on my balance is a great practice in skill, but it is not artful. It’s like putting primer on a canvas.
